Philodendron Bipennifolium: Profile & 5 Full Guides

The owner of a trademark This strange-looking plant will not only make your guests turn their heads, but they will also wonder what that strange beauty in a pot is.

Their leaves are shaped like violins, a big green butterfly, or a horse’s head, and they will captivate your guests.

You may be wondering what kind of care this exotic plant requires because it is so rare and sought after. Philodendron bipennifolium, believe it or not, will be just another tropical houseplant that doesn’t need much care.

Because of the way its leaves look, it is also called fiddleleaf or horsehead philodendron.

If you want your Bipennifolium to dance in your yard or sit comfortably with your other houseplants, it will need some TLC and plant care, just like any other houseplant.

What is the Philodendron Bipennifolium?

The leathery, shiny green leaves of the fiddle leaf are beautiful. The plant is native to Argentina and Brazil, where it grows by wrapping itself around trees. It has a thin stem with aerial roots. This gives it hemi-epiphytic leaves and allows it to grow like a vine.

By suspending it from baskets or pots with a moss pole, you can make a steaming hot forest. Best of all, we’ll show you how to care for this unusual plant.

Philodendron Bipennifolium Care Basics

The tropical houseplant likes warm conditions and doesn’t like the cold. Also, it helps the plant grow like it does in its native region by giving it a container big enough to hold its huge root ball. Here are some tips to help your Horsehead Philodendron do well in your garden.

Best Potting Mix

It is best to use well-draining soil for the fiddleleaf philodendron because it helps keep the right amount of water without causing root rot.

Also, the silt you use should make up 40% of the sandy soil, while the rest should be made up of clay. Also, it must have a slightly acidic pH balance, between 5 and 6 pH.

Watering Needs

Philodendron bipennifolium care includes keeping the soil moist but not soggy.Wet soil could stop oxygen from getting to the roots, which could lead to root rot. Another issue is that the leaves become darker or that the plant stops growing.

It’s better to water the plant once the soil has dried out. A soil probe is an excellent way to make sure that your Horsehead Philodendron gets enough water. It does not need as much watering in the winter as it does in the summer.

Ideal Lighting

Your fiddle-leaf plant needs sun, but it can’t take direct sunlight on the leaves. Direct exposure to UV light can turn the leaves yellow and leave burn scars. When the leaves get oblique sunlight, photosynthesis works well, and the leaves grow.

As a result, it is best to put your plant in a window that faces north or south. If you treat them as outdoor plants, make sure to put them near a tree or another plant that can provide shade.

Humidity & Temperature 

It is best to keep the temperature between 65 and 70 °F in the evening (18 and 21 °C). The most important thing to remember is that the Philodendron bipennifolium cannot tolerate freezing temperatures.

This jungle plant needs moisture from a humidifier in the room. You can also use a pebble tray by putting the plant in a basket and filling the tray with just enough water to cover the stones. Place your plant on the tray, and as the water evaporates, it will create the moisture it needs.

Once the tray looks dry, fill it with water.

Fertilizer 

You will notice that you do not have to fertilize your plant as often. It only needs to be fertilized three times a year, depending on the condition of the plants. Use a slow-release fertilizer to avoid having to feed it often.

Be careful to spray about five inches around the base. But before you do that, you should water the plant to keep it moist and prevent it from burning or hurting its roots. Don’t use fertilizers with a lot of salt in them, since they are bad for the plant.

Propagation

When it comes to spreading Philodendron bipennifolium, stem cutting is the best way to do it. Air-layering is another wonderful technique to use. The plant can grow to heights of 3 to 7 feet and climbs well with a mossy pole.

The leaves can grow as long as 18 inches. The exciting part is that you can do the propagation steps below, which are best done in March:

Air Layering

The first step is to cut the plant, which requires a sterile knife and 70% isopropyl alcohol. Make a wound about two inches deep and two inches long.

• The wound needs to remain open and using a toothpick through it helps.
• Get some sphagnum peat moss and moisten it to stick to the wounded area. To speed up the process, you can use the hormone-rooting compound.
• Take some string to wrap it around the wound and tie it back to keep the peat moss in place. Use some plastic wrap around the wound but not too tight, as it needs to breathe.
• Now you need to be patient for the wound to root. So get a pot or hanging basket ready in the meantime with enough drainage holes. It takes about a month with this process as the roots start poking through the peat moss.
• Wait until the roots grow at least four inches in length before you cut the stem. Use a sterilized knife again to cut it.
• Cut a few inches above and below the peat moss. Now remove everything carefully and plant the root under the soil to help expand the growth.

Stem Cutting

Start by finding a good place below the leaf node that is about 2 to 4 inches long. Check that at least two of the leaves are connected. Also, just like with the first step, use pruning shears that have been cleaned and disinfected.

After cutting, store the new piece in a warm place for up to two weeks to cure it.

This lets the cut stem make a callus so it can be put in the soil. To do this, just stick your finger a few inches into the ground.

Put the cutting in the hole and fill it with dirt to help it grow. If the stem won’t stand up by itself, use a mossy stick or a straw to hold it up.

Growth Zone

USDA Hardiness Zone:  10b-11

When fully grown, its leaves can be between 1 and 3 feet long, have a leathery texture, and look strange. Bipennifolium can grow indoors with low humidity and warm, indirect light.

Potting and Repotting

You can show off your Fiddleleaf Philodendron in a unique way by putting it in a glazed ceramic pot or a plastic one.

If you want to show off your handy work, you can hang it in a hanging basket or make a macramé hanging planter.

The most important thing to remember is that the diameter of the pot should be one to two inches bigger than the root ball.

As your plant grows, you will need to move it every two to three years.

Philodendron Bipennifolium Varieties and Similar Plant

Variegated cultivars of Philodendron bipennifolium, like Philodendron bipennifolium glaucous, have more blue leaves than the species. The Philodendron bipennifolium aurea, also called the Golden Violin, has bright yellow leaves with lobes that are bigger than usual and have different shapes.

• Philodendron Domesticum

is yet another plant you can use to decorate your home. It has long, arrow-shaped leaves that are shiny on the outside. There is a type of this species that has glossy leaves that are a mix of white and yellow.

• Philodendron Imbe

It has leaves that look like arrows, just like the last one, but they get bigger.

• Philodendron Scandens x Oxycardium

This is a hybrid plant with leaves in the shape of a heart, which you may have seen before. Also, it grows the same way that ivy does.

• Philodendron Xanadu

This plant has beautiful leaves that look like fingers and grow very big in the right conditions.

Philodendron Bipennifolium Diseases & Pests

Another common bug that is easy to get rid of is the brown scale.

Both of these bugs feed on your plant’s sap, and applying Neem oil to them causes them to suffocate.To get rid of them, all you need is an oil-filled spray bottle that has been cleaned and sanitized.

If the plant’s leaves are falling off, it hasn’t had enough water and is drying out.

Water-soaked lesions are another problem. This plant disease can quickly kill your plant. You may notice dark leaves, leaves that are dead or falling over, or both.

First, get rid of any diseased parts and get a fungicide with copper in it.

Spray the solution on the plant, but first try it on a small part to see how it reacts.