Echeveria Succulent

Echeveria Succulent: Profile & 11 Tips To Guides

Echeveria Succulent is the most popular indoor plant. This beautiful house plant comes in a wide variety of sizes and colors.

The succulents are easy to maintain and require little care. There are several popular plants available and many new varieties being developed and introduced regularly.

Introducing About The Echeveria Succulent

Echeverias are succulents that grow quickly and are known for their unique look and ease of care. They look like flowers because of their beautiful rosette shape, lush leaves, and wide range of colors.

When they bloom in the summer, they look beautiful. They should be planted in the spring, when the growing season starts. Most echeveria will stay small, no wider than a foot, but some species can grow up to two feet tall and look like small shrubs.

Common NameEcheveria
Botanical NameEcheveria spp.
FamilyCrassulaceae
Plant TypeSucculent
Mature Size2-24 in. tall, 2-12 in. wide
Sun ExposureFull
Soil TypeWell-draining
Soil pHAcidic
Bloom TimeSpring, summer
Flower ColorPink, orange, white, yellow, red
Hardiness Zones9-12 (USDA)
Native AreaCentral America, North America, South America

Echeveria Care

Echeveria are succulents that are native to Central America, South America, and Mexico. They are members of the Crassulaceae family. Their care is similar to that of sedums and kalanchoes, which also have fleshy, swollen leaves and stems that hold water.

Echeveria Succulent

Echeverias do best in bright, dry places and can handle being ignored for a while. This makes them great houseplants for anyone, whether they have a green thumb or not.

If you let water stay in the rosettes, the plant could die from rot or fungal infections. Also, as the plant grows, take off the dead leaves from the bottom. Pests like to live in these.

Light

Echeverias need a lot of light to grow and do well. They need at least 4–5 hours of direct sunlight every day, and ideally 6 hours. 1 If you don’t give Echeverias full sun, they will grow tall and thin and probably not bloom.

During the summer, move your echeveria outside to help it grow. If you brought your plant indoors for the winter, you should gradually prepare it for outdoor use.

Direct afternoon sun can cause sunburn, so put your plant where it will get some shade when the sun is at its strongest.

Soil

Echeverias need a porous growing medium that drains well so that the roots don’t get too wet.

Standard cactus potting mixes, which can be found at most nurseries and garden stores, can be used to grow echeverias. Mix together three parts regular potting soil, two parts coarse sand, and one part perlite to make cactus mix.

Echeverias are great houseplants, and they also do well in garden beds if the soil is well-drained and has a pH of 6.0 or less.

Water

The most important thing to do for echeveria is to water it.

Like other succulents, echeverias don’t need a lot of water, but they also don’t like to be too dry. When the leaves start to get wrinkled, it’s clear that the plant needs water. Overwatering echeverias can lead to root rot, so it’s best not to give them too much water. 1

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Before you water your echeveria, wait until the soil is completely dry. Then, soak it well by letting the water run out of the drainage holes in the pot. During the growing season, give the plant between 1/2 cup and 1 cup of water every 7–10 days, depending on how big it is.

Echeveria Succulent

If you put a saucer under the pot, pour out any water that stays in it after it drains. In the summer, you’ll need to water Echeveria more often than in the winter. During the winter, water the plant just enough so that the leaves stay wrinkled, which is about once a month.

Temperature and Humidity

Echeverias do well when it is hot and dry. They don’t like drafts or temperatures that are too cold. Root rot can be caused by too much moisture.

Echeverias do well in the average temperature and humidity of a home, but they shouldn’t be put in a room with a lot of moisture, like a bathroom or laundry room.

Most echeverias can handle winter temperatures down to 50 degrees Fahrenheit in USDA Zone 9a. This means they can grow on the ground. In colder places, bring the plant inside when frost is coming.

Fertilizer

Thrive echeveria doesn’t need to be fertilized often because it can grow in soil with few nutrients.

Fertilizer burn can occur if they receive too much fertilizer.2 During their active growing seasons, spring and summer, echeverias can benefit from a little fertilizer now and then, but be careful.

Use a fertilizer for cacti and succulents or a controlled-release, balanced 20-20-20 liquid fertilizer that has been diluted two to four times. Use a fertilizer that is low in nitrogen for young plants.

Types of Echeveria

Echeveria is a vast, widely hybridized genus, including roughly 150 species and more than 1,000 cultivars.

A big pot full of different kinds of echeveria is a very eye-catching sight. Here are a few of the ones we like best:

  • Ghost echeveria (Echeveria lilacina): Pale, silvery-gray fleshy leaves; leaves are more lilac-colored in winter months; can produce pale pink or coral lantern-shaped blooms on long red stems when mature
  • Echeveria peacockii: Spoon-shaped, powdery blue-gray leaves with red tips that grow in a rosette formation
  • Mexican snowballs (Echeveria elegans): Also commonly known as white Mexican rose or Mexican gem succulent; features thick, fleshy blue-green to silver-green leaves
  • Mexican firecracker (Echeveria setosa): Scoop-shaped leaves with a rose-like look; each leaf is covered in tiny, short white hairs, giving the plant a fuzzy appearance; late spring, mature plants produce foot-long flower stalks with beautiful red firecracker-like urn-shaped flowers with yellow tips
  • Echeveria agavoides’ Lipstick’: Lime green leaves with pointy red edges, giving it the nickname “Lipstick”; its botanical name comes from its agave-looking foliage, with thick, triangle-shaped leaves

Pruning

Pruning your echeveria on a regular basis will keep it from rotting, encourage new growth, and make it last longer.

Echeverias don’t need to be pruned often, but if yours grows tall and thin because it doesn’t get enough sunlight, cut it back to keep it looking nice.

Pruning is best done when their growing season starts, but you can do it at any time. As the plant’s normal life cycle goes, the lower leaves will dry up and die in the end.

Using your fingertips, gently pull off the dead leaves so they don’t rot. Taking off the leaves could also help encourage new growth along the stem.

Propagating Echeveria

Adding more echeveria plants is a fun thing to do. They are easy to grow again by taking cuttings of the leaves, stems, offsets, or seeds. Cuttings are a great way to keep a plant from getting too tall. The best time to take cuttings is in the spring. Here’s what you do:

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Leaf or stem cuttings or offsets are used to make new plants:

  1. You’ll need a tray, cactus mix, a plastic bag or clear dome, and a pot with ample drainage holes. If cutting a stem, you will need sterilized scissors or pruning snips.
  2. Carefully separate a leaf from the plant’s main stem by gently wiggling it side to side until it pops off. Always propagate more than one leaf, as not all will grow into a new plant.
  3. If taking a stem cutting, snip off a stem that has become leggy.
  4. If using an offset or offshoot (pup) growing off the main stem, carefully snip it or pinch it off the main branch.
  5. Lay the leaf cutting, stem cutting, or offset flat on a tray and allow it to callous over for a few days before planting the calloused end in the pot filled with succulent or cacti mix.
  6. Mist the soil, and cover the pot until the new plant sprouts. Place it in a sunny location—but avoid direct sunlight.
  7. Once roots have developed (you will see new growth), water sparingly as you would with a mature succulent.
  8. After about a month, a tiny rosette will begin to develop at the end of the leaf. Do not separate the leaf from the rosette, as it supplies the new succulent with energy and nutrients. Over time, the old leaf will shrivel and die as the new succulent becomes more independent.

How to Grow Echeveria From Seed

Spread the seeds out on a bed of soil (60%), grit or sand (30%), perlite (10%), or a succulent and cactus mix, leaving space between each seed.

Use a terracotta pot or another container with lots of holes in it so the water can drain out. To keep the soil moist, cover it with plastic wrap or put it in a plastic bag with a zip-top.

Put the pot somewhere bright, but not in direct sunlight. Once a day, take the lid off for an hour to let the plant breathe. For germination to work best, the temperature should be between 65 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

After about three weeks, the seeds should start to grow. Once the seeds have grown and little rosettes have formed, take off the plastic cover.

Don’t let the soil dry out, and make sure it gets plenty of sun (but not direct sun). Every three to four days, water the seedlings when the soil dries out.

Potting and Repotting Echeveria

Echeveria plants do not need to be replanted on a regular basis and should only be repotted after they have outgrown their previous container. Most of the time, repotting is done in the spring, when the plant is growing the most.

Before removing an echeveria plant from its potting container, make sure the dirt is totally dry. Carefully take the plant out of the pot. Remove any extra soil from the roots of the plant before putting it in its new pot.

During the process, you should get rid of any dead or rotting roots. Backfill the new pot with potting soil, making sure to spread the roots out as you do so.

Fungicide needs to be put on any cuts. After repotting, don’t water for a week to keep the roots from going bad.

Overwintering

The winter is too cold for Echeveria to live outside. It can’t handle temperatures that are below freezing. Bringing your Echeveria indoors is the best way to overwinter it.

Echeveria will not require severe warmth but should be maintained at or above 45 degrees. During the cooler months, it will lay dormant and require less water, only needing water once a month.

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Common Pests and Plant Diseases

Echeveria is rarely attacked by pests; however, most succulents are vulnerable to fungus gnats, spider mites, and mealy bugs. Fungus gnats resemble little black flies that float over the dirt.

Echeveria Succulent

Spider mites are tiny, dust-like insects that live on the undersides of leaves; thin webbing on the plant is their telltale indication.

Mealybugs have whitish, cottony, or waxy skin. Insecticide soaps and neem oil can be used to eliminate bug infestations.

Succulents are generally killed by fungal infections when they become infected. Rot is frequently caused by cold or moist circumstances or by overwatering.

Rotten tissues turn red, brown, or black, and they generally become wet, slimy, and stink. You’ll need to rearrange your watering regimen, either by lowering the amount or frequency.

To remedy the rot, take the plant from its pot, carefully wash the roots, and cut away any dead roots.

After 24 hours, repot the plant in a new or sterilized container with fresh soil.

Follow the directions on the package to treat the plant’s soil with a fungicide.

How to Get Echeveria to Bloom

A mature echeveria will not blossom for at least four seasons. It normally produces its beautiful flower stalks in the spring or summer. Deadhead or remove wilting flowers on a regular basis.

This step is optional, but it will help the plant develop fresh blossoms. Echeveria blooms have no fragrance.

Fertilizer can help Echeveria grow. For blooming, use a thin, diluted high-phosphorus mix, such as a 5-10-5 ratio fertilizer (or even 10-15-10). (Alternatively, 10-15-10.)From April through September, apply it monthly.

If you use it outside, it needs at least six hours of direct sunlight. Position it near a sunny window or use a grow lamp indoors. Low light is frequently the cause of leggy or spindly Echeveria not producing blooms.

Temperatures that are too hot or too cold may also hinder a plant from blossoming. Make sure it has well-draining soil since wet feet destroy flower production and, ultimately, the plant.

Common Problems With Echeveria

The majority of Echeveria species are simple succulents to cultivate. As with other succulents, regular watering and enough light will help assure success.

Discolored, Soft Growth

The leaves or other parts of a plant often turn brown or black and get mushy when there is too much humidity or too much water. Stem rot disease makes stems soft and mushy. If your plant develops stem rot, it has a fungal infection.

Although fungi are normally fatal, you can salvage the plant by unpotting it, cutting away rotten roots, stems, and leaves, airing it out, and repotting it in fresh soil with a fungicide spray.

Yellowing, Wilting, or Leaf Drop

If you water the leaves too much, they will turn white. When fed too much water, leaves may wilt, bulge, or fall off.

Check the undersides and cracks of leaves to see if there are any insects there. If left untreated, bugs can cause plants to lose vitality and even kill them.

Limp, Shriveling Leaves

If the leaves of echeveria start to shrink or wrinkle, it’s probably because they don’t get enough water. The plant will get droopy and withered.

The leaves will lose their lush, robust appearance. You may even observe dried-up, brown, dead leaves around the plant’s base. Most succulents will get better after getting a good drink of water.

Echeveria Succulent

FAQ

How long can an echeveria live?

An echeveria plant can live anywhere from three years to many decades, depending on how closely its growth conditions match its native environment.

Where should I put an echeveria plant in my house?

Sunlight is best for Echeveria plants. Echeveria can be grown indoors, but they need the brightest, longest light, especially in the winter when the days are shorter.

What are alternatives to echeveria?

Echeveria succulents are related to Haworthia and Sempervivum succulents, but their plump, silky leaves in a pretty rosette shape make them stand out.

See more articles in this category: Outdoor Plants

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